AI-generated illustration. Your sweater will differ: the real texture depends on your yarn and tension.
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Intermediate pattern · sizes S to 2X · worsted yarn in Cream and Forest Green, US I-9 hook. Ugly Christmas Sweater Day falls on the third Friday of December: December 18 in 2026.
This crochet Christmas sweater is made of four rectangles: a front, a back and two sleeves. They are all worked in half double crochet (hdc), so there is no shaping to count. Only the front has color: a band of Forest Green trees, with stars in the sky between them.
We chose hdc on purpose. Colorwork where you carry the yarn is usually done in single crochet, but that fabric is stiff and needs about 2.5 times as many stitches for the same area (by our assumed gauges). Hdc is softer and faster. We have not crocheted this stitch with carried yarn ourselves: the swatch tells you if you like it.
Counts were checked by software. This pattern has not been crocheted and swatched by a person before publication. Sizes, yarn and time are estimates from a suggested gauge: make a swatch and adjust.
Time: About 30 to 35 hours (S) to 45 to 50 hours (2X), estimated, not timed. Not a first project. At 5 hours a week that is about 6 to 7 weeks for S and 9 to 10 weeks for 2X. These times are estimates from assumed speeds (not timed by a person). Count on more if you are new to colorwork or seaming.
- Level
- Intermediate: hdc, changing and carrying yarn, seaming. Not a first project
- Time
- About 30 to 35 hours (S) to 45 to 50 hours (2X), estimated, not timed. Not a first project
- Finished size
- Chest 42 1/2 in (S) to 58 1/2 in (2X), boxy fit with about 7 1/2 to 8 1/2 in of ease over the largest bust of each range (approximate)
- Yarn
- Worsted weight (#4), 2 colors: about 1810 yd (S) to 2770 yd (2X) in all
- Hook
- US I-9 (5.5 mm)
- Gauge
- Gauge swatch is required, not optional. Suggested only, not swatched: 13 hdc and 9 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in hdc with US I-9 (5.5 mm), colorwork rows included. Your rows and stitches may be fewer or more than we show: measure your swatch and adjust.
- Construction
- Front, back, 2 sleeves: rectangles in hdc, seamed; drop shoulders, no shaping. Sleeves are as wide at the cuff as at the armhole (17 in in S to 21 1/2 in in 2X): a very loose, wide cuff. Fold the cuff back once if you want it shorter.
How this pattern was checked
Every row of every size, with the yarn color of every stitch, was replayed by software. Counts were checked by software. This pattern has not been crocheted and swatched by a person before publication. We have not crocheted this exact sweater yet, so make the swatch first.
Abbreviations (US)
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- hdc = half double crochet
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
- tch = turning chain (ch 2 here: never counted, never worked into)
- Cream / Green = the two colors: Cream and Forest Green
- S (M, L, XL, 2X) = numbers for each size: the first is S, the others follow in order
Materials
- Cream (main color and seams): about 2710 yd (size 2X)
- Forest Green (tree band): about 60 yd (size 2X)
- Yardage above is for the biggest size (2X); the other sizes are in the Sizes cards.
- Yarn needle, scissors, stitch markers (at least 8), measuring tape.
- Pick a soft yarn whose label says it can be washed the way you will wash the sweater.
S: to fit bust 32-34 in, finished chest about 42 1/2 in
- Yarn
- Worsted weight (#4), 2 colors: Cream and Forest Green
- Hook
- US I-9 (5.5 mm)
- Yarn needed
- Cream 1770 yd · Forest Green 40 yd, about 1810 yd in all (estimated, with a 20 % margin)
- Finished size
- Chest about 42 1/2 in (108 cm), length about 24 in (61 cm), armhole depth about 8 1/2 in, sleeve length about 17 in, sleeve width around about 17 in, neck opening about 12 in. Positive ease about 8 1/2 in over the largest bust of the range. Approximate.
- Counts
- Front and back: ch 71, 69 sts, 54 rows each. Band: Rows 29-39 of the front, 6 trees, 6 Cream sts at each end. Sleeves (2): ch 57, 55 sts, 38 rows. Shoulder seams 15 sts each, neck 39 sts. Armhole 19 rows on the front and on the back. About 30 to 35 hours in all, estimated, not timed. Not a first project.
M: to fit bust 36-38 in, finished chest about 46 in
- Yarn
- Worsted weight (#4), 2 colors: Cream and Forest Green
- Hook
- US I-9 (5.5 mm)
- Yarn needed
- Cream 1970 yd · Forest Green 40 yd, about 2010 yd in all (estimated, with a 20 % margin)
- Finished size
- Chest about 46 in (117 cm), length about 25 in (63 cm), armhole depth about 9 in, sleeve length about 17 1/2 in, sleeve width around about 18 in, neck opening about 12 in. Positive ease about 8 in over the largest bust of the range. Approximate.
- Counts
- Front and back: ch 77, 75 sts, 56 rows each. Band: Rows 31-41 of the front, 7 trees, 4 Cream sts at each end. Sleeves (2): ch 59, 57 sts, 40 rows. Shoulder seams 18 sts each, neck 39 sts. Armhole 20 rows on the front and on the back. About 35 to 40 hours in all, estimated, not timed. Not a first project.
L: to fit bust 40-42 in, finished chest about 50 in
- Yarn
- Worsted weight (#4), 2 colors: Cream and Forest Green
- Hook
- US I-9 (5.5 mm)
- Yarn needed
- Cream 2200 yd · Forest Green 50 yd, about 2250 yd in all (estimated, with a 20 % margin)
- Finished size
- Chest about 50 in (127 cm), length about 26 in (67 cm), armhole depth about 9 1/2 in, sleeve length about 18 in, sleeve width around about 18 1/2 in, neck opening about 12 1/2 in. Positive ease about 8 in over the largest bust of the range. Approximate.
- Counts
- Front and back: ch 83, 81 sts, 59 rows each. Band: Rows 33-43 of the front, 7 trees, 7 Cream sts at each end. Sleeves (2): ch 61, 59 sts, 42 rows. Shoulder seams 20 sts each, neck 41 sts. Armhole 21 rows on the front and on the back. About 40 to 45 hours in all, estimated, not timed. Not a first project.
XL: to fit bust 44-46 in, finished chest about 53 1/2 in
- Yarn
- Worsted weight (#4), 2 colors: Cream and Forest Green
- Hook
- US I-9 (5.5 mm)
- Yarn needed
- Cream 2440 yd · Forest Green 50 yd, about 2490 yd in all (estimated, with a 20 % margin)
- Finished size
- Chest about 53 1/2 in (136 cm), length about 27 in (69 cm), armhole depth about 10 in, sleeve length about 18 1/2 in, sleeve width around about 20 1/2 in, neck opening about 13 in. Positive ease about 7 1/2 in over the largest bust of the range. Approximate.
- Counts
- Front and back: ch 89, 87 sts, 61 rows each. Band: Rows 33-43 of the front, 8 trees, 5 Cream sts at each end. Sleeves (2): ch 62, 60 sts, 46 rows. Shoulder seams 22 sts each, neck 43 sts. Armhole 23 rows on the front and on the back. About 40 to 45 hours in all, estimated, not timed. Not a first project.
2X: to fit bust 48-50 in, finished chest about 58 1/2 in
- Yarn
- Worsted weight (#4), 2 colors: Cream and Forest Green
- Hook
- US I-9 (5.5 mm)
- Yarn needed
- Cream 2710 yd · Forest Green 60 yd, about 2770 yd in all (estimated, with a 20 % margin)
- Finished size
- Chest about 58 1/2 in (148 cm), length about 28 in (71 cm), armhole depth about 10 1/2 in, sleeve length about 19 in, sleeve width around about 21 1/2 in, neck opening about 14 in. Positive ease about 8 1/2 in over the largest bust of the range. Approximate.
- Counts
- Front and back: ch 97, 95 sts, 63 rows each. Band: Rows 33-43 of the front, 9 trees, 4 Cream sts at each end. Sleeves (2): ch 64, 62 sts, 48 rows. Shoulder seams 25 sts each, neck 45 sts. Armhole 24 rows on the front and on the back. About 45 to 50 hours in all, estimated, not timed. Not a first project.
Size table
| Measure | S | M | L | XL | 2X |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| To fit bust (in) | 32-34 | 36-38 | 40-42 | 44-46 | 48-50 |
| Finished chest (in) | 42 1/2 | 46 | 50 | 53 1/2 | 58 1/2 |
| Ease over largest bust (in) | 8 1/2 | 8 | 8 | 7 1/2 | 8 1/2 |
| Length (in) | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 |
| Armhole depth (in) | 8 1/2 | 9 | 9 1/2 | 10 | 10 1/2 |
| Sleeve length (in) | 17 | 17 1/2 | 18 | 18 1/2 | 19 |
| Sleeve width around (in) | 17 | 18 | 18 1/2 | 20 1/2 | 21 1/2 |
| Neck opening (in) | 12 | 12 | 12 1/2 | 13 | 14 |
| Front/back: sts x rows | 69 x 54 | 75 x 56 | 81 x 59 | 87 x 61 | 95 x 63 |
| Sleeve: sts x rows | 55 x 38 | 57 x 40 | 59 x 42 | 60 x 46 | 62 x 48 |
Finished measurements and stitch counts for every size, in inches. Approximate, from our suggested gauge: check them against your swatch. Scroll sideways on a phone.
Gauge and swatch
Make a swatch first
A gauge swatch is required, not optional. Our gauge is a guess, not a measurement. With Cream, make the swatch of the Swatch section: ch 35, 33 sts, 23 rows, with the 3-tree band in the middle rows and the Green carried like in the sweater. Block the swatch AND the pieces, the band especially: block the swatch the way you will block the sweater, then measure 13 hdc x 9 rows in the plain rows AND in the band rows, separately. We assumed 13 hdc and 9 rows. If you get more sts, go up a hook size; fewer, go down. Hold the swatch up to a window: if the Green shows through the Cream stitches, use a Green that is lighter or a Cream that is thicker, or choose a lighter second color. The band should lie as flat and wide as the plain hdc around it: if it puckers or is narrower, go up a hook size for the band rows only. Colorwork in hdc with carried yarn gives a thicker, tighter fabric than plain hdc, and a tree may lean a little between right-side and wrong-side rows: we have not tried this ourselves. Then check your size: your finished chest = 2 x the stitches of the panel / your sts per inch. Example: size M has 75 sts; at 13 sts per 4 in (3.25 per in) the chest is about 46 in, at 12 sts per 4 in (3 per in) it would be about 50 in. For length, rows per inch work the same way. Weigh your swatch in grams. Yards needed = (swatch grams / swatch area in sq in) x sweater area / grams per yard of your yarn; the sweater area is about 1590 (S), 1770 (M), 1980 (L), 2210 (XL), 2450 (2X) sq in (front, back and 2 sleeves). Our yardage is an estimate: buy one skein more than the card says.
Notes
- US crochet terms: see the abbreviations above. Sizes: S, M, L, XL, 2X. Numbers are written S (M, L, XL, 2X).
- Turning ch (ch 2): it does not count as a st. Work the first hdc in the very first st and the last hdc in the last st of the row, never in the turning ch.
- Hdc: yarn over, insert the hook under both top loops of the next st (the V), yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
- Back bump: the bump on the back of each foundation ch. Row 1 goes in the back bumps. Keep the foundation chain loose: use a hook one size up for it if you tend to chain tight.
- Row 1 of every piece is a right-side (RS) row, so odd rows are RS and even rows are WS. The chart shows the band as seen from the right side: RS rows are read right to left, WS rows left to right.
- Carrying the yarn: in every band row, hold the color you are not using along the top of the stitches of the row below and work your hdc over it, so it is inside the stitches. Do this for the whole row, also on the stretches where that color is not used. Then the yarn is always waiting where the next row needs it and the back stays free of loops. Honest warning: carried yarn makes the fabric thicker and tighter than plain hdc, the Green can show through the Cream, and a tree can lean a little between right-side and wrong-side rows. We have not tried this ourselves: the swatch tells you.
- Changing color: work the hdc before the change up to the last step: you have 3 loops on the hook. Drop the old color (it is carried over the next sts) and pull the new color through all 3 loops. The change happens on that last pull-through, so the new color shows in the next st. Pull the carried yarn gently: tight strands pucker the fabric.
- Every band row starts and ends with Cream (the trees never touch the first or last 3 sts), so the turning ch is always Cream. The Green is joined at the first tree in Band Row 1 (its 6 in tail is worked over, no end to weave) and cut at the edge in Band Row 11.
- [ ] times: do everything inside the brackets as many times as it says. A band row is the same pieces repeated; the numbers for your size are in the first part of each line.
How to make it
Choose your size
Pick the size from your bust measurement plus the ease you like, or measure a boxy sweater you love, laid flat, and compare it with 'A panel width' x 2 in the size table. The sweater is meant to be loose: about 7 1/2 to 8 1/2 in of ease over the largest bust of each range. If you are between sizes, take the smaller one for a closer fit.
Work the front
Chain, work Row 1 and the plain rows in Cream. Start the band at the row shown for your size. Join the Green at the first tree in Band Row 1, carry it through all 11 band rows and cut it at the end of Band Row 11. Carrying the yarn: in every band row, hold the color you are not using along the top of the stitches of the row below and work your hdc over it, so it is inside the stitches. Do this for the whole row, also on the stretches where that color is not used. Then the yarn is always waiting where the next row needs it and the back stays free of loops. Honest warning: carried yarn makes the fabric thicker and tighter than plain hdc, the Green can show through the Cream, and a tree can lean a little between right-side and wrong-side rows. We have not tried this ourselves: the swatch tells you.
Work the back and the sleeves
The back is the same as the front without the band. Each sleeve is a rectangle: its rows run along the arm, one short edge is the cuff and the other short edge goes into the armhole.
Seam the pieces
Pin first: For every seam, pin the first and the last rows (or sts) of the seam and the middle first, then sew between the pins. Shoulder seams: Lay the front and the back flat, right sides up, tops of the stitches touching. With the needle, go under the 2 loops of the V of one st on the front, then under the V of the matching st on the back, and repeat across. Seam the first 15 (18, 20, 22, 25) sts and the last 15 (18, 20, 22, 25) sts of the top edge. Leave the middle 39 (39, 41, 43, 45) sts open: this is the neck (15 (18, 20, 22, 25) + 39 (39, 41, 43, 45) + 15 (18, 20, 22, 25) = 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) sts). Mark the armholes: On each side edge of the front and of the back, count 19 (20, 21, 23, 24) rows down from the shoulder seam and put a marker. This is the armhole (the underarm marker). Set in the sleeves: A sleeve has 38 (40, 42, 46, 48) rows (the rows run along the arm, so the short edges are row ends). Fold the sleeve in half: the fold is between its Row 19 (20, 21, 23, 24) and its Row 20 (21, 22, 24, 25). Put that fold at the shoulder seam and sew the armhole edge of the sleeve to the armhole: 19 (20, 21, 23, 24) rows on the front and 19 (20, 21, 23, 24) rows on the back, one row end to one row end. Do the same with the other sleeve.
Swatch
Make this first. 21 sts and 14 rows, the same for every size.
- FoundationCh 35.Stitch count: 35 ch
- Row 1 (RS)Skip the first 2 ch from the hook (they are the turning ch and do not count as a st). Work a hdc in the back bump of the next ch and of each ch across.Stitch count: 33 hdc
- Rows 2 to 6Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc in each st across. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 33 hdc
- Row 7 = Band Row 1 (RS)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Join the Forest Green at the first Green st of this row: lay its 6 in tail along the top of the next sts and work over it (no end to weave in). From there carry the Green in every st to the end of the row. Hdc: 6 Cream, [1 Green, 9 Cream] 2 times, 1 Green, 6 Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 33 hdc
- Row 8 = Band Row 2 (WS)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 3 Cream, [7 Green, 3 Cream] 2 times, 7 Green, 3 Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 33 hdc
- Row 9 = Band Row 3 (RS)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 4 Cream, [5 Green, 5 Cream] 2 times, 5 Green, 4 Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 33 hdc
- Row 10 = Band Row 4 (WS)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 5 Cream, [3 Green, 7 Cream] 2 times, 3 Green, 5 Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 33 hdc
- Row 11 = Band Row 5 (RS)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 4 Cream, [5 Green, 5 Cream] 2 times, 5 Green, 4 Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 33 hdc
- Row 12 = Band Row 6 (WS)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 5 Cream, [3 Green, 7 Cream] 2 times, 3 Green, 5 Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 33 hdc
- Row 13 = Band Row 7 (RS)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 6 Cream, [1 Green, 9 Cream] 2 times, 1 Green, 6 Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 33 hdc
- Row 14 = Band Row 8 (WS)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: in each st across with Cream, carrying the Green. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 33 hdc
- Row 15 = Band Row 9 (RS)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 11 Cream, [1 Green, 9 Cream] 1 times, 1 Green, 11 Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 33 hdc
- Row 16 = Band Row 10 (WS)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 10 Cream, [3 Green, 7 Cream] 1 times, 3 Green, 10 Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 33 hdc
- Row 17 = Band Row 11 (RS)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 11 Cream, [1 Green, 9 Cream] 1 times, 1 Green, 11 Cream. Cut the Green, leaving a 6 in tail. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 33 hdc
- Rows 18 to 23Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc in each st across. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 33 hdc
Front
Worked from the hem up in Cream, with the tree band in Forest Green. Sizes: S, M, L, XL, 2X. Numbers are written S (M, L, XL, 2X).
- FoundationCh 71 (77, 83, 89, 97).Stitch count: 71 (77, 83, 89, 97) ch
- Row 1 (RS)Skip the first 2 ch from the hook (they are the turning ch and do not count as a st). Work a hdc in the back bump of the next ch and of each ch across.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
- Rows 2 to 28 (30, 32, 32, 32)Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc in each st across. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
- Band Row 1 (RS) = Row 29 (31, 33, 33, 33)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Join the Forest Green at the first Green st of this row: lay its 6 in tail along the top of the next sts and work over it (no end to weave in). From there carry the Green in every st to the end of the row. Hdc: 9 (7, 10, 8, 7) Cream, [1 Green, 9 Cream] 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) times, 1 Green, 9 (7, 10, 8, 7) Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
- Band Row 2 (WS) = Row 30 (32, 34, 34, 34)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 6 (4, 7, 5, 4) Cream, [7 Green, 3 Cream] 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) times, 7 Green, 6 (4, 7, 5, 4) Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
- Band Row 3 (RS) = Row 31 (33, 35, 35, 35)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 7 (5, 8, 6, 5) Cream, [5 Green, 5 Cream] 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) times, 5 Green, 7 (5, 8, 6, 5) Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
- Band Row 4 (WS) = Row 32 (34, 36, 36, 36)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 8 (6, 9, 7, 6) Cream, [3 Green, 7 Cream] 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) times, 3 Green, 8 (6, 9, 7, 6) Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
- Band Row 5 (RS) = Row 33 (35, 37, 37, 37)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 7 (5, 8, 6, 5) Cream, [5 Green, 5 Cream] 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) times, 5 Green, 7 (5, 8, 6, 5) Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
- Band Row 6 (WS) = Row 34 (36, 38, 38, 38)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 8 (6, 9, 7, 6) Cream, [3 Green, 7 Cream] 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) times, 3 Green, 8 (6, 9, 7, 6) Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
- Band Row 7 (RS) = Row 35 (37, 39, 39, 39)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 9 (7, 10, 8, 7) Cream, [1 Green, 9 Cream] 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) times, 1 Green, 9 (7, 10, 8, 7) Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
- Band Row 8 (WS) = Row 36 (38, 40, 40, 40)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: in each st across with Cream, carrying the Green. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
- Band Row 9 (RS) = Row 37 (39, 41, 41, 41)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 14 (12, 15, 13, 12) Cream, [1 Green, 9 Cream] 4 (5, 5, 6, 7) times, 1 Green, 14 (12, 15, 13, 12) Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
- Band Row 10 (WS) = Row 38 (40, 42, 42, 42)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 13 (11, 14, 12, 11) Cream, [3 Green, 7 Cream] 4 (5, 5, 6, 7) times, 3 Green, 13 (11, 14, 12, 11) Cream. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
- Band Row 11 (RS) = Row 39 (41, 43, 43, 43)Ch 2 with Cream (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc: 14 (12, 15, 13, 12) Cream, [1 Green, 9 Cream] 4 (5, 5, 6, 7) times, 1 Green, 14 (12, 15, 13, 12) Cream. Cut the Green, leaving a 6 in tail. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
- Rows 40 (42, 44, 44, 44) to 54 (56, 59, 61, 63)Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc in each st across. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
Back
Same size as the front, all Cream.
- FoundationCh 71 (77, 83, 89, 97).Stitch count: 71 (77, 83, 89, 97) ch
- Row 1 (RS)Skip the first 2 ch from the hook (they are the turning ch and do not count as a st). Work a hdc in the back bump of the next ch and of each ch across.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
- Rows 2 to 54 (56, 59, 61, 63)Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc in each st across. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) hdc
Sleeves
Make 2, all Cream. The rows run along the arm.
- FoundationCh 57 (59, 61, 62, 64).Stitch count: 57 (59, 61, 62, 64) ch
- Row 1 (RS)Skip the first 2 ch from the hook (they are the turning ch and do not count as a st). Work a hdc in the back bump of the next ch and of each ch across.Stitch count: 55 (57, 59, 60, 62) hdc
- Rows 2 to 38 (40, 42, 46, 48)Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc in each st across. Do not work in the turning ch. The rows run along the arm: the short edges are the cuff and the armhole.Stitch count: 55 (57, 59, 60, 62) hdc
Assembly
Rectangles seam row end to row end, so the counts below match.
- Weave in endsThe Green has one end to weave in: the tail you cut at the edge of Band Row 11 (the tail you started with is worked over). Weave it into the side seam later. Weave in the other ends on the wrong side.
- BlockBlock the swatch AND the pieces, the band especially, to the measurements in the size table, following the yarn label. Rectangles seam much more easily when they are flat.
- Pin firstFor every seam, pin the first and the last rows (or sts) of the seam and the middle first, then sew between the pins.
- Shoulder seamsLay the front and the back flat, right sides up, tops of the stitches touching. With the needle, go under the 2 loops of the V of one st on the front, then under the V of the matching st on the back, and repeat across. Seam the first 15 (18, 20, 22, 25) sts and the last 15 (18, 20, 22, 25) sts of the top edge. Leave the middle 39 (39, 41, 43, 45) sts open: this is the neck (15 (18, 20, 22, 25) + 39 (39, 41, 43, 45) + 15 (18, 20, 22, 25) = 69 (75, 81, 87, 95) sts).
- Mark the armholesOn each side edge of the front and of the back, count 19 (20, 21, 23, 24) rows down from the shoulder seam and put a marker. This is the armhole (the underarm marker).
- Set in the sleevesA sleeve has 38 (40, 42, 46, 48) rows (the rows run along the arm, so the short edges are row ends). Fold the sleeve in half: the fold is between its Row 19 (20, 21, 23, 24) and its Row 20 (21, 22, 24, 25). Put that fold at the shoulder seam and sew the armhole edge of the sleeve to the armhole: 19 (20, 21, 23, 24) rows on the front and 19 (20, 21, 23, 24) rows on the back, one row end to one row end. Do the same with the other sleeve.
- Underarm and side seamsSew the long edge of the sleeve with the foundation ch to the long edge with the last row (55 (57, 59, 60, 62) sts to 55 (57, 59, 60, 62) sts), then continue down the side of the body: 35 (36, 38, 38, 39) rows of the front to 35 (36, 38, 38, 39) rows of the back. The sleeve seam and the side seam meet at the underarm marker; sew them as one seam from cuff to hem. Repeat on the other side.
- FinishWeave in the seaming ends. The neck, hem and cuffs are left as they are (the edge of the hdc rows): no border to work.
Charts and plans
The tree band, row by row
S front: where the band is
| Part | Rows | Color |
|---|---|---|
| Hem | Rows 1-28 | Cream |
| Tree band | Rows 29-39 | Cream and Forest Green |
| Above the band | Rows 40-54 | Cream |
M front: where the band is
| Part | Rows | Color |
|---|---|---|
| Hem | Rows 1-30 | Cream |
| Tree band | Rows 31-41 | Cream and Forest Green |
| Above the band | Rows 42-56 | Cream |
L front: where the band is
| Part | Rows | Color |
|---|---|---|
| Hem | Rows 1-32 | Cream |
| Tree band | Rows 33-43 | Cream and Forest Green |
| Above the band | Rows 44-59 | Cream |
XL front: where the band is
| Part | Rows | Color |
|---|---|---|
| Hem | Rows 1-32 | Cream |
| Tree band | Rows 33-43 | Cream and Forest Green |
| Above the band | Rows 44-61 | Cream |
2X front: where the band is
| Part | Rows | Color |
|---|---|---|
| Hem | Rows 1-32 | Cream |
| Tree band | Rows 33-43 | Cream and Forest Green |
| Above the band | Rows 44-63 | Cream |
Finishing
Try the sweater on before you block it. Check that every end is woven in, that the seams are flat and that the Green strands inside the band lie flat. Wash and dry the sweater as the yarn label says. You can lightly block it; follow the yarn label, and block the band especially.
Weave in and wash
Weave in the ends on the wrong side. Wash and dry as the yarn label says.
Tips
- Put a stitch marker in the first stitch of every row so you can count quickly: every row must give the number of sts in your size card.
- Weigh your skeins before you start: the yardage is an estimate, and a second skein of the same dye lot is easier to buy now than later.
- To make the sweater longer or shorter, add or remove plain rows below the band on the front and the back (the same number on both). Then the side seam stays equal.
- Work a few band rows, then compare them with the chart: it is easier to rip back 2 rows than 8.
Common mistakes
- Working in the turning chain: the row gets 1 stitch too many.
- Skipping the first stitch of the row: the row gets 1 stitch too few.
- Pulling the carried yarn tight: the band puckers and the sweater gets narrower there.
- Forgetting that Row 1 is a right-side row: the chart is read from the right side.
Make it your own
- Other colors: any two colors with good contrast keep the trees clear.
- Fewer trees: start with the swatch and use the same rows with your own number of trees: the band repeats every 10 sts.
- Add a band to the sleeves or the back by working the same band rows there. This is a suggestion, not something we checked.
Care
- Follow the washing and drying instructions on the label of your yarn.
More views
FAQ
How long does it take?
About 30 to 35 hours for S and 45 to 50 hours for 2X, estimated at 6 hdc a minute with seaming included, not timed by a person. Not a first project.
Is this a pullover or a cardigan?
It is a pullover with drop shoulders: front, back and two sleeves, seamed.
Why hdc instead of single crochet?
Hdc is softer and needs far fewer stitches for the same area. Carrying the yarn is usually shown in sc, so we made a swatch step to check the fabric before you start.
Why is the gauge only suggested?
Our gauge is an estimate for worsted yarn and a US I-9 hook, not a measurement from a finished sweater. Make the swatch in the steps and adjust the hook size or the size you choose.
How do I make the sweater longer?
Add plain Cream rows below the band, the same number on the front and on the back. Each 9 rows add about 4 in with our gauge.
Has someone crocheted this pattern before publication?
Counts were checked by software. This pattern has not been crocheted and swatched by a person before publication.
When is Ugly Christmas Sweater Day?
Ugly Christmas Sweater Day falls on the third Friday of December: December 18 in 2026.
© 2026 amgroyal.com. You may sell what you crochet. Please don't copy or repost this pattern; link to it instead.
