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Waffle Stitch Baby Blanket (Easy Crochet Pattern)

AI-generated illustration. Your blanket will differ: the real texture depends on your yarn and tension.

Easy pattern · stroller about 29 3/4 x 35 1/4 in or large about 35 3/4 x 44 1/2 in · worsted yarn in Rust and Sand, US I-9 hook.

This waffle stitch baby blanket uses only two stitches: double crochet and front post double crochet (fpdc). Two rows repeat over and over, and the post stitches form a waffle grid on the fabric.

Each stripe is 4 rows (the first Rust stripe also holds Row 1, so it is 5), so you change color at the end of a row and never have to count in the middle of one.

Counts were checked by software. This pattern has not been crocheted and swatched by a person before publication. Sizes, yarn and time are estimates from a suggested gauge: make a swatch and adjust.

This blanket is for supervised use (stroller, play, cuddling). Do not leave it in a crib or bassinet with a sleeping baby: safe-sleep guidance says no loose blankets for babies under 12 months. Not a toy.

Level
Easy: ch, dc, fpdc and sc
Time
About 20 hours (stroller) or 31 hours (large), estimated, not timed
Finished size
Stroller about 29 3/4 x 35 1/4 in, large about 35 3/4 x 44 1/2 in (approximate)
Yarn
Worsted weight (#4), 2 colors: about 920 yd (stroller) or 1390 yd (large) in all
Hook
US I-9 (5.5 mm)
Gauge
Suggested only, not swatched: 14 sts and 7-8 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in waffle stitch. Rows may be shorter than we show, so measure your swatch and adjust the number of rows.
Stitch multiple
Chain a multiple of 3 + 2 (stitches = chain – 2, a multiple of 3)
Length
The length depends on your row gauge. The sizes above assume 7 rows = 4 in. With 8 rows = 4 in, the stroller is about 31 in long and the large about 39 in; add or remove 4 rows (one stripe) at a time to get the length you want.
How this pattern was checked
Every row of both sizes and the border was replayed by software. Counts were checked by software. This pattern has not been crocheted and swatched by a person before publication. We have not crocheted this exact blanket yet, so make the swatch first.

Abbreviations (US)

  • ch = chain
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • fpdc = front post double crochet
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • RS = right side
  • WS = wrong side
  • tch = turning chain (ch 2 here: never counted, never worked into)
  • yo = yarn over
  • k = number of times you do the bracket [ ]

Materials

  • Rust (stripes): about 720 yd (large size)
  • Sand (stripes and border): about 670 yd (large size)
  • Yardage above is for the large size; the stroller is in the Sizes cards.
  • Yarn needle, scissors, stitch markers.
  • Pick a soft yarn whose label says it can be washed the way you will wash the blanket.

Stroller: about 29 3/4 x 35 1/4 in

Yarn
Worsted weight (#4), 2 colors: Rust and Sand
Hook
US I-9 (5.5 mm)
Yarn needed
Rust 480 yd · Sand 440 yd, about 920 yd in all (estimated, with a 20 % margin)
Finished size
about 29 3/4 x 35 1/4 in (75 x 90 cm), approximate. With 8 rows = 4 in the length is about 31 in.
Counts
Foundation ch 104; 102 sts per row (k = 33); 61 rows (15 stripes of 4 rows, the first one also holds Row 1). Border: 448 sc (100 sc along the top and the bottom, 2 sc in the end of each of 59 rows on each side, 3 sc in each corner). About 20 hours in all, estimated.

Large: about 35 3/4 x 44 1/2 in

Yarn
Worsted weight (#4), 2 colors: Rust and Sand
Hook
US I-9 (5.5 mm)
Yarn needed
Rust 720 yd · Sand 670 yd, about 1390 yd in all (estimated, with a 20 % margin)
Finished size
about 35 3/4 x 44 1/2 in (91 x 113 cm), approximate. With 8 rows = 4 in the length is about 39 in.
Counts
Foundation ch 125; 123 sts per row (k = 40); 77 rows (19 stripes of 4 rows, the first one also holds Row 1). Border: 554 sc (121 sc along the top and the bottom, 2 sc in the end of each of 75 rows on each side, 3 sc in each corner). About 31 hours in all, estimated.

Gauge and swatch

Make a swatch first
Our gauge is a guess, not a measurement. Ch 17, work Rows 1-9 with Rust for Rows 1-5 and Sand for Rows 6-9 (15 sts, k = 4). Measure the middle 4 in: count the sts across and the rows up. We assumed 14 sts and 7 rows. If you get fewer sts, go down a hook size; more sts, go up. If your rows are shorter or taller, your blanket will be shorter or longer than our table: add or remove 4 rows (one stripe) at a time.

Notes

  • US crochet terms: see the abbreviations above.
  • Turning ch (ch 2): it does not count as a st. Work the first dc in the very first st and the last dc in the last st of the row, never in the turning ch.
  • Fpdc: yarn over, insert the hook from the front, around the post of the stitch in the row below (the stitch right under your hook, the one you would work a dc into), and out to the front again. "Front" always means the side of the work facing you as you hold it. On a wrong-side row (odd rows) the post stitch therefore sticks out toward you on the wrong side. This is normal and is what makes the waffle. Yarn over, pull up a loop, then (yo, pull through 2 loops) twice. A fpdc takes the place of the dc you would have made in that st: do not skip a stitch behind a fpdc, and do not also work in the top of that st.
  • Which stitch is it? Rows 2 and 3 both use fpdc. Row 2 (right side): fpdc around the 2nd st, then every 3rd st after it, so each fpdc sits between 2 dc. Row 3 (wrong side): 2 fpdc in a row, then 1 dc. Every fpdc goes around a dc of the row below (never a ch).
  • Back bump: the bump on the back of each foundation ch, the side away from the V. Row 1 goes in the back bumps; the border later goes in the free loop (the V) of the same ch.
  • [ ] times: do everything inside the brackets as many times as it says.
  • Odd rows are the wrong side, even rows are the right side. You always insert the hook from the front of the work as you hold it, so on wrong-side rows the fpdc come toward you on the wrong side.

Waffle rows

Foundation, Row 1, then repeat Rows 2-3. Counts for both sizes are given in the Sizes cards.

  1. FoundationCh 104 (Stroller) or 125 (Large).Stitch count: 104 ch (Stroller) or 125 ch (Large)
  2. Row 1 (WS)Skip the first 2 ch from the hook (they are the turning ch and do not count as a st). Work a dc in the back bump of the next ch and of each ch across.Stitch count: 102 sts (Stroller) or 123 sts (Large)
  3. Row 2 (RS)Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. Dc in the first st. [Fpdc around the post of the next st, dc in each of the next 2 sts] 33 (Stroller) or 40 (Large) times. Fpdc around the post of the next st, dc in the last st. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 102 sts: 68 dc, 34 fpdc (Stroller) or 123 sts: 82 dc, 41 fpdc (Large)
  4. Row 3 (WS)Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. Dc in each of the first 2 sts. [Fpdc around the post of each of the next 2 sts, dc in the next st] 33 (Stroller) or 40 (Large) times. Dc in the last st. Do not work in the turning ch.Stitch count: 102 sts: 36 dc, 66 fpdc (Stroller) or 123 sts: 43 dc, 80 fpdc (Large)
  5. Rows 4 to the endRepeat Rows 2-3 (even rows = Row 2, odd rows = Row 3) until you have the number of rows in your size card. The last row is always an odd row (Row 3 type). Change color as in the stripe chart.Stitch count: 61 rows in all (Stroller) or 77 rows in all (Large)
Chain and work Row 1
With Rust, make the foundation chain for your size and work Row 1 in the back bump of each ch. Keep the chain loose: a tight chain pulls the bottom edge in. The ch under the first and the last dc of Row 1 are the bottom corners.
Work the fpdc rows
Both rows 2 and 3 have fpdc. Each one goes around the post of the dc below it: the upright part of the stitch, between its top and the bottom. Do not skip a stitch behind a fpdc. Count your stitches at the end of every row: they must match your size card.
Change color
Stripes are 4 rows (the first stripe also holds Row 1). Change color on the last dc of the last row of a stripe: work it until 2 loops are left on the hook, pull the new color through. Keep the carried yarn on the wrong side, along the edge, and twist it with the working yarn at each change (once around each other) before you go on. The first time you join Sand, leave a 6 in tail. Carry the color you are not using loosely up the edge where odd-numbered rows end: every change happens on that same edge, so the yarn is always waiting there. Never pull the carried strand tight.

Charts and plans

Waffle stitch symbol chart: Rows 1 to 9 of dc and fpdc symbols with the repeated 3 stitches boxed, Rows 1-5 rust and Rows 6-9 sand
Rows 1-9 drawn from our row model (15 sts, k = 4 so it fits on a phone); your blanket has k = 33 (stroller) or 40 (large). Seen from the right side: odd rows left to right, even rows right to left. A computer drawing. Open it full size
Stripe plan of the waffle stitch baby blanket: stroller 61 rows and large 77 rows, Rust and Sand stripes with row numbers and the Sand border
Both sizes to scale, with the row numbers of every stripe and the Sand border (the band between the 2 outlines, drawn thicker than scale). A computer drawing. Open it full size

Stripes, row by row

Stroller stripes, Row 1 first
StripeRowsColor
Stripe 1Rows 1-5Rust
Stripe 2Rows 6-9Sand
Stripe 3Rows 10-13Rust
Stripe 4Rows 14-17Sand
Stripe 5Rows 18-21Rust
Stripe 6Rows 22-25Sand
Stripe 7Rows 26-29Rust
Stripe 8Rows 30-33Sand
Stripe 9Rows 34-37Rust
Stripe 10Rows 38-41Sand
Stripe 11Rows 42-45Rust
Stripe 12Rows 46-49Sand
Stripe 13Rows 50-53Rust
Stripe 14Rows 54-57Sand
Stripe 15Rows 58-61Rust
Large stripes, Row 1 first
StripeRowsColor
Stripe 1Rows 1-5Rust
Stripe 2Rows 6-9Sand
Stripe 3Rows 10-13Rust
Stripe 4Rows 14-17Sand
Stripe 5Rows 18-21Rust
Stripe 6Rows 22-25Sand
Stripe 7Rows 26-29Rust
Stripe 8Rows 30-33Sand
Stripe 9Rows 34-37Rust
Stripe 10Rows 38-41Sand
Stripe 11Rows 42-45Rust
Stripe 12Rows 46-49Sand
Stripe 13Rows 50-53Rust
Stripe 14Rows 54-57Sand
Stripe 15Rows 58-61Rust
Stripe 16Rows 62-65Sand
Stripe 17Rows 66-69Rust
Stripe 18Rows 70-73Sand
Stripe 19Rows 74-77Rust

Border

Sand, 1 round, right side facing.

  1. BorderFasten off the last color. Hold the blanket with the right side facing you and the last row at the top. Join Sand with a sl st in the top right corner st (the last st of the last row, looking at the right side), leaving a 6 in tail. Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 3 sc in the same st (corner). Sc in the top of each of the next 100 (Stroller) or 121 (Large) sts along the top (fpdc included). 3 sc in the next st (corner). Down the left side, 2 sc in the end of each of the next 59 (Stroller) or 75 (Large) rows (2 sc in the side of the end dc of that row, not in the turning ch), the top and bottom rows not included (they are the corner sts). Bottom edge: the 2 chains you skipped at the start of Row 1 stay unworked at this corner. Ignore them and work the corner in the ch under the first dc: 3 sc in the free loop (the V) of that ch (corner), then sc in the free loop (the V) of each of the next 100 (Stroller) or 121 (Large) ch, then 3 sc in the free loop (the V) of the ch under the last dc of Row 1 (corner). Up the right side, 2 sc in the end of each of the next 59 (Stroller) or 75 (Large) rows. Join with a sl st in the first sc. Fasten off. If the sides ripple (wave), you have too many sc: in every 8th row end work 1 sc instead of 2. If the sides pull in (cup), work 3 sc in every 8th row end instead of 2. Your sc count then changes by 1 for each such row end, so adjust the counts above. You can lightly block the finished blanket; follow the yarn label.Stitch count: 448 sc (stroller) or 554 sc (large)
Add the border
After the last row, work the Sand border as written. The corners get 3 sc each; count your sc on each edge against the size card. If the sides ripple (wave), you have too many sc: in every 8th row end work 1 sc instead of 2. If the sides pull in (cup), work 3 sc in every 8th row end instead of 2. Your sc count then changes by 1 for each such row end, so adjust the counts above. You can lightly block the finished blanket; follow the yarn label.

Finishing

Check that every end is woven in and that the carried strands lie flat along the edge. Wash and dry the blanket as the yarn label says before you gift it. You can lightly block the finished blanket; follow the yarn label. This blanket is for supervised use (stroller, play, cuddling). Do not leave it in a crib or bassinet with a sleeping baby: safe-sleep guidance says no loose blankets for babies under 12 months. Not a toy.

Weave in and wash
Weave each end through 2 or 3 inches of stitches of the same color on the wrong side. Wash and dry as the yarn label says.

Tips

  • Put a stitch marker in the first stitch of every row so you can count quickly.
  • To change the size, add or remove 3 stitches (and 3 ch in the foundation) at a time, or 4 rows at a time so the stripes stay whole.
  • Keep the same tension on the post stitches: pulling them tight shrinks the width.

Common mistakes

  • Working in the turning chain: the row gets 1 stitch too many.
  • Skipping a stitch behind a fpdc: the row gets 1 stitch too few.
  • Working a dc in the top of the stitch you went around with a fpdc: the row gets 1 stitch too many.
  • Pulling the carried yarn tight: the edge puckers.

Make it your own

  • Other colors: any two colors with good contrast keep the stripes clear.
  • One color: skip the stripes, it is still a textured blanket.
  • Bigger or smaller: use the tip above to change the size.

Care

  • Follow the washing and drying instructions on the label of your yarn.
  • This blanket is for supervised use (stroller, play, cuddling). Do not leave it in a crib or bassinet with a sleeping baby: safe-sleep guidance says no loose blankets for babies under 12 months. Not a toy.

More views

Close-up of a rust and sand waffle stitch baby blanket corner with a sand single crochet border (AI-generated illustration)
AI-generated illustration. Your blanket will differ: the real texture depends on your yarn and tension.
Rust and sand waffle stitch baby blanket draped over a wooden crib rail (AI-generated illustration)
AI-generated illustration. Your blanket will differ: the real texture depends on your yarn and tension. Shown on a rail for styling only; do not leave a blanket in the crib with a sleeping baby.

FAQ

What is the waffle stitch?
It is a pattern of double crochet and front post double crochet (fpdc). Two rows repeat, and the fpdc stitches form a waffle grid.
How many stitches do I chain for a different size?
Chain a multiple of 3 plus 2: your stitches are the chain minus the 2 turning chain, a multiple of 3. For example, 104 ch for 102 stitches.
Why is the gauge only suggested?
Our gauge is an estimate for worsted yarn and a US I-9 hook, not a measurement from a finished blanket. Make the swatch in the steps and adjust the hook size or the number of stitches.
Does the waffle stitch use more yarn than plain double crochet?
Our estimate says yes: a fpdc goes around a post, so we count it longer than a dc (5.0 in against 3.5 in). Our yardage is an estimate with a 20 % margin: buy a little extra if you can.
Has someone crocheted this pattern before publication?
Counts were checked by software. This pattern has not been crocheted and swatched by a person before publication.
Can I leave this blanket in a crib with a baby?
This blanket is for supervised use (stroller, play, cuddling). Do not leave it in a crib or bassinet with a sleeping baby: safe-sleep guidance says no loose blankets for babies under 12 months. Not a toy.

Baby safety

Baby safety: this blanket is made for the stroller, the play mat and cuddles. For sleep, follow your pediatrician's safe sleep advice, and keep loose blankets out of an unattended baby's sleep space. Check that every end is woven in and that no strand or loop can catch a small finger.

© 2026 amgroyal.com. You may sell what you crochet. Please don't copy or repost this pattern; link to it instead.

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