The back of the boxy mesh top, worn over a white tank top. Preview picture, not a photo of a finished piece.
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This crochet top pattern makes a boxy mesh tee in pale butter yellow, with a blue-green edge and off-white stripes. It is made for warm days, worn over a tank top. The free pattern gives sizes S to 2X, cell counts for every row, yardage for each of three colors, a to-scale plan and a printable PDF.
Pick by bust: S 32-34 · M 36-38 · L 40-42 · XL 44-46 · 2X 48-50 in
Boxy Mesh Top at a Glance
- Level
- Advanced beginner: dc + ch-1 mesh counted in rows and four kinds of seams. Not a first project
- Time
- About 17 to 20 hours (S) to 23 to 26 hours (2X), estimated, not timed
- Finished size
- Finished bust 41 1/2 in (S) to 57 1/2 in (2X), boxy, with 7 1/2 to 8 1/2 in of ease. Body 22 1/2 in (S) to 23 in (2X) long, with short sleeves (approximate).
- Yarn
- DK weight (#3) cotton blend in 3 colors: about 550 yd (S) to 790 yd (2X) in all. Colors: Anise Flower (main), Waterfall (hem and cuff edging), Antique White (two stripes).
- Hook
- US 7 (4.5 mm)
- Construction
- Four rectangles in dc + ch-1 mesh: front and back are identical, sewn at the shoulders and the sides, with the armholes left open; two sleeve rectangles are sewn into tubes and set into the armholes.
How this pattern was checked
Stitch counts were checked by software; no person has crocheted this pattern yet, so every number is an estimate. Make the swatch first.
Sizes and Finished Measurements
The top is boxy: it adds about 7 1/2 to 8 1/2 in over the largest bust of each range. Between sizes, take the smaller for a closer fit. The bust ranges are the Craft Yarn Council ranges, the same as in our Chunky Crochet Sweater.
S: to fit bust 32-34 in, finished bust about 41 1/2 in
About 550 yd in all.
M: to fit bust 36-38 in, finished bust about 46 1/2 in
About 610 yd in all.
L: to fit bust 40-42 in, finished bust about 49 1/2 in
About 660 yd in all.
XL: to fit bust 44-46 in, finished bust about 54 1/2 in
About 730 yd in all.
2X: to fit bust 48-50 in, finished bust about 57 1/2 in
About 790 yd in all.
Abbreviations (US)
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
sp = space (here: a ch-1 space)
RS = right side (the outside of the top)
WS = wrong side (the inside)
yo = yarn over
st, sts = stitch, stitches
S (M, L, XL, 2X) = numbers for each size: the first is S, the others follow in order
Yarn, Hook and Yardage by Size
Anise Flower (pale butter yellow): 430 yd (S) / 480 yd (M) / 520 yd (L) / 590 yd (XL) / 630 yd (2X)
Waterfall (blue-green): 50 yd (S) / 60 yd (M) / 60 yd (L) / 60 yd (XL) / 70 yd (2X)
Antique White (warm off-white): 70 yd (S) / 70 yd (M) / 80 yd (L) / 80 yd (XL) / 90 yd (2X)
Use a DK (#3) cotton or cotton-blend yarn. We chose cotton because it is a summer fiber; the hook is the top size for DK, to keep the mesh open (our design choices, not test results).
Yards for each color and size are above: Anise Flower is the main color and also the seaming yarn; Waterfall is the hem and cuff edging (Rows 1 and 2); Antique White is two stripes on the front and the back and one on each sleeve.
Skeins (Anise Flower / Waterfall / Antique White), of 125 yd or of 250 yd: S 4/1/1 or 2/1/1; M 4/1/1 or 2/1/1; L 5/1/1 or 3/1/1; XL 5/1/1 or 3/1/1; 2X 6/1/1 or 3/1/1. Read your label: skein sizes vary.
Add 15 % to the yards you work out from your swatch.
Yarn needle (large eye), scissors, stitch markers (at least 4), measuring tape, pins.
A finished top weighs about 200 to 400 g (0.4 to 0.9 lb) depending on the size and the yarn (estimate, not weighed).
Gauge and the Mesh Stitch (dc + ch-1 Grid)
Make a swatch first
Required, not optional. Our gauge is an estimate, not a measurement. With your yarn and the US 7 (4.5 mm) hook, work the Swatch section (ch 25, 11 cells, 11 rows), wash or block it exactly as you will block the pieces, let it dry, then measure 7 cells (3rd dc to 10th dc) and 7 rows: each should measure 4 in.
If they measure more than 4 in, your cells are bigger than ours: change to a hook one size smaller. If they measure less, change to a hook one size larger. Then swatch again.
Cotton mesh grows when it is blocked, so measure after blocking. If the width and the height of your swatch do not agree (the cells are right but the rows are not, or the reverse), adjust the width first, with the hook size: the cells decide the shoulders, the neck and the width. The row ends cannot change, because every seam joins one post to one row end. So the length is the one that moves: length = the number of rows x the inches your 7 rows measure / 7 (S has 39 rows).
Count rows as well as cells: your cells decide the width and the neck, your rows decide the length. The seams only work if your gauge is close to ours (1 post = 1 row end).
Notes
US crochet terms: see the abbreviations above. Sizes: S, M, L, XL, 2X. Numbers are written S (M, L, XL, 2X).
Cell: one ch-1 space and the dc next to it. Post: a dc, or the ch 3 at the start of a row (it counts as a dc). A row of C cells has C + 1 posts. Seams join posts and row ends one to one.
Foundation chain: keep it loose (use a hook one size up for it if you tend to chain tight). It is long, so count it in tens.
Row 1 of every piece is a right-side (RS) row, so odd rows are RS and even rows are WS. RS = the outside of the top, WS = the inside. The ch 3 at the start of a row counts as a dc. Every 'right' and 'left' in this pattern is written for a right-handed crocheter: if you crochet left-handed, mirror the directions (our drawings are not mirrored).
Join a new skein at the end of a row. Leave 6 in tails. Change color on the last yarn over of the last dc of the row before, and cut the old color: every color change leaves 2 ends.
Cotton mesh can grow in length when worn or wet: block and hang your swatch before you measure it.
Crochet the 4 Rectangles
Work the four rectangles
Chain, work Row 1 and the mesh rows, changing color as the Colors line says. Front and back have the same number of rows. Every row ends with a dc in the 3rd ch of the ch 3 of the row before.
Swatch
Make this first. 11 cells and 11 rows, the same for every size. Row 2 is explained here once: the pieces below say "work Row 2 as in the swatch".
FoundationCh 25.Stitch count: 25 ch
Row 1 (RS)Dc in the 5th ch from the hook (the 4 skipped ch count as a dc and a ch-1 space). *Ch 1, skip the next ch, dc in the next ch*; work the part between the stars 10 times in all, to the end of the chain.Stitch count: 11 dc and 11 ch-1 spaces, plus the ch 3 at the start
Rows 2 to 11Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn. Skip the first dc. *Ch 1, skip the next ch-1 space, dc in the next dc*; work the part between the stars 10 times in all. Ch 1, skip the last ch-1 space, dc in the 3rd ch of the ch 3 of the row before (on Row 2 only, at the foundation edge: Row 1 has no ch 3, so dc in the 3rd ch from the edge; the 4th ch is the ch-1 space you skip).Stitch count: 11 dc and 11 ch-1 spaces, plus the ch 3 at the start
Front and Back Panels (Make 2)
Work it twice, row for row: the front and the back are identical. Sizes: S, M, L, XL, 2X. Numbers are written S (M, L, XL, 2X).
FoundationCh 75 (83, 89, 97, 103).Stitch count: 75 (83, 89, 97, 103) ch
Row 1 (RS)Dc in the 5th ch from the hook (the 4 skipped ch count as a dc and a ch-1 space). *Ch 1, skip the next ch, dc in the next ch*; work the part between the stars 35 (39, 42, 46, 49) times in all, to the end of the chain.Stitch count: 36 (40, 43, 47, 50) dc and 36 (40, 43, 47, 50) ch-1 spaces, plus the ch 3 at the start
Rows 2 to 39 (39, 39, 40, 40)Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn. Skip the first dc. *Ch 1, skip the next ch-1 space, dc in the next dc*; work the part between the stars 35 (39, 42, 46, 49) times in all. Ch 1, skip the last ch-1 space, dc in the 3rd ch of the ch 3 of the row before. Work Row 2 as in the swatch.Stitch count: 36 (40, 43, 47, 50) dc and 36 (40, 43, 47, 50) ch-1 spaces, plus the ch 3 at the start
ColorsRows 1 to 2 Waterfall; Rows 3 to 12 Anise Flower; Rows 13 to 14 Antique White; Rows 15 to 24 Anise Flower; Rows 25 to 26 Antique White; Rows 27 to 39 (39, 39, 40, 40) Anise Flower. Change color on the last yarn over of the last dc of the row before, and cut the old color: every color change leaves 2 ends.
Last row (Row 39 (39, 39, 40, 40))Fasten off, leave a 12 in tail for sewing.
Get the free printable PDF (Letter + A4)Every size and stitch count on paper, ready to print.Get the free PDF
Short Sleeves (Make 2)
Make 2, identical.
FoundationCh 49 (53, 57, 61, 69).Stitch count: 49 (53, 57, 61, 69) ch
Row 1 (RS)Dc in the 5th ch from the hook (the 4 skipped ch count as a dc and a ch-1 space). *Ch 1, skip the next ch, dc in the next ch*; work the part between the stars 22 (24, 26, 28, 32) times in all, to the end of the chain.Stitch count: 23 (25, 27, 29, 33) dc and 23 (25, 27, 29, 33) ch-1 spaces, plus the ch 3 at the start
Rows 2 to 10 (11, 11, 12, 12)Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn. Skip the first dc. *Ch 1, skip the next ch-1 space, dc in the next dc*; work the part between the stars 22 (24, 26, 28, 32) times in all. Ch 1, skip the last ch-1 space, dc in the 3rd ch of the ch 3 of the row before. Work Row 2 as in the swatch.Stitch count: 23 (25, 27, 29, 33) dc and 23 (25, 27, 29, 33) ch-1 spaces, plus the ch 3 at the start
ColorsRows 1 to 2 Waterfall; Rows 3 to 4 Anise Flower; Rows 5 to 6 Antique White; Rows 7 to 10 (11, 11, 12, 12) Anise Flower. Change color on the last yarn over of the last dc of the row before, and cut the old color: every color change leaves 2 ends.
Last row (Row 10 (11, 11, 12, 12))Fasten off, leave a 12 in tail for sewing.
Assembly: Four Simple Seams
One post is sewn to one post or to one row end, so the counts match. The plan and the cards below work through size M; the first card gives the counts of every size.
Seam counts for every size
S: shoulders 7 posts (twice), open neck 23 posts, sides 27 row ends (twice), armhole 12 rows, sleeve seam 10 row ends, sleeve top 24 posts.
M: shoulders 8 posts (twice), open neck 25 posts, sides 26 row ends (twice), armhole 13 rows, sleeve seam 11 row ends, sleeve top 26 posts.
L: shoulders 9 posts (twice), open neck 26 posts, sides 25 row ends (twice), armhole 14 rows, sleeve seam 11 row ends, sleeve top 28 posts.
XL: shoulders 10 posts (twice), open neck 28 posts, sides 25 row ends (twice), armhole 15 rows, sleeve seam 12 row ends, sleeve top 30 posts.
2X: shoulders 11 posts (twice), open neck 29 posts, sides 23 row ends (twice), armhole 17 rows, sleeve seam 12 row ends, sleeve top 34 posts.
Before you sew
Weave in the ends on the wrong side, along a row, going back on yourself for 3 in.
Block the four pieces flat, as the yarn label says.
Pin each seam at both ends and in the middle first, then every 2 in.
Mark the shoulder posts (example: size M)
A last row has 41 posts: the dc and the ch 3 at its start.
From each outer end of the last row count 8 posts and put a marker.
The 8 posts at each end are sewn; the 25 posts in the middle stay open and make the neck.
Seam 1: shoulders
Sew 8 posts of the front to 8 posts of the back, one to one, at each end (8 posts, twice).
Put the front on the back, right sides together, last rows level, and whipstitch through the top loops. Join the end of the front to the end of the back that lies on the same side of the garment (the right shoulder when worn, then the left).
Seam 2: sides
Sew 26 row ends of the front to 26 row ends of the back, one to one, on each side (26 row ends, twice).
Start at the hem. The top 13 row ends of each side stay open: this is the armhole.
Seam 3: sleeve seams
Fold each sleeve in half and sew 11 row ends to 11 row ends, right sides together.
The sleeve is now a tube with 26 posts around its last row.
Seam 4: sleeves into the armholes
Sew the 26 posts of a sleeve to the 26 row ends of the armhole, one to one (13 on the front, 13 on the back).
Put the sleeve seam on the top of the side seam and the point halfway round the sleeve top (between post 13 and post 14) on the shoulder seam.
Check the neck
The neck is the 25 open posts of the front and the 25 open posts of the back (size M).
Try your head through the opening before you weave in the seam ends.
Free Printable PDF and Charts
Finishing: Plain Edges, Blocking and Care
Weave in the seaming ends and check that the seams lie flat. The neck, the hem and the cuffs stay raw: no border, no fringe. Wash as the label says. Lay flat to dry (drying time not tested). Store folded.
Tips
Put a stitch marker in the ch 3 of every row so you can count quickly: every row must give the number of cells in your size card.
After the last row of each piece (front, back, each sleeve): Fasten off, leave a 12 in tail for sewing.
Count the foundation chain twice: the width of the piece comes from it.
Weigh your skeins before you start: the yardage is an estimate, and a second skein of the same dye lot is easier to buy now than later.
Keep your tension relaxed: a tight hook gives a net, not a top.
Common mistakes
Working the last dc of a row in the ch 3 instead of its 3rd ch: the row gets one cell too few.
Skipping the first dc after turning: skip it, because the ch 3 stands for it.
Different numbers of rows on the front and the back: the side seams will not match.
Crochet Top Pattern FAQ
How do I choose my size for a boxy crochet top?
Choose by your bust: S 32-34 in, M 36-38 in, L 40-42 in, XL 44-46 in, 2X 48-50 in. These are the Craft Yarn Council ranges. Measure at the fullest part of the bust. The top is boxy: its finished bust is 7 1/2 to 8 1/2 in larger than the largest bust of the range. Between sizes, take the smaller for a closer fit.
How do I get the starting chain for my size?
The foundation chain is 2 x the number of cells + 3. For the front and the back: ch 75 (S, 36 cells), ch 83 (M, 40 cells), ch 89 (L, 43 cells), ch 97 (XL, 47 cells), ch 103 (2X, 50 cells). For the sleeves: ch 49 (S), ch 53 (M), ch 57 (L), ch 61 (XL), ch 69 (2X). Count the chain in tens, and make your swatch first.
How much yarn do I need for a crochet top?
About 550 yd (S), 610 yd (M), 660 yd (L), 730 yd (XL) and 790 yd (2X) of DK (#3) cotton blend in all three colors, with a 15 % margin. The size cards give the yards of each color. Check the label for yards, not grams.
What yarn is best for a crochet mesh top?
The pattern uses a DK (#3) cotton or cotton-blend yarn and a US 7 (4.5 mm) hook. Cotton is a summer fiber. The mesh can also grow in length when worn or wet, so block and hang your swatch before you measure it.
Will I see through the mesh?
Yes. The mesh is open, so you see skin and the layers under it. Wear the top over a tank top or another layer you like.
Can I make the top longer or change the neckline?
Length: every 7 rows add 4 in, and in size S 7 more rows on the front and the back take about 70 yd more yarn. Add or take away the same number of rows on the front and the back, and keep the armhole rows as they are. The pattern gives no counts for a V or scoop neck. The straight neck opening is 25 1/2 in (S) to 32 1/2 in (2X) around.
Can I sell the tops I make from this pattern?
You may sell what you crochet. Please don't copy or repost this pattern; link to it instead.
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© 2026 amgroyal.com. You may sell what you crochet. Please don't copy or repost this pattern; link to it instead.
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